Saturday, February 28, 2015

Making wooded areas

He's a quick in simple way to make wooded areas that look great on the table.
  • MDF board 
  • Grout
  • Sand texture
  • Flock 
  • Grass turfs 
  • Some little rocks
  •  Woodland scenic clump foliage 

After gathering materials your ready to start.

 Firstly cut the MDF board to the desired shape and size .
As you can see I cut a round piece to use as a base.

Next cover the base with a thin coat of grout 

Next after you let the grout dry take the sand texture and cover the grout 
Let dry .. Next you can add some little rocks where you like randomly ... Then spray paint the whole thing black .. Then paint the rocks 
  • Base coat Vallejo dark grey 
  • Black wash (citadel nulon oil) 
  • Dry brush Vallejo London grey 
  • Dry brush Vallejo light grey or sky grey 
  • Dry brush just a touch of white 

Paint the surface different browns to get your dirt. 

Next flock your piece and add your woodland scenic clump foliage and grass turfs and your ready to go

After flocked and clump foliage and army painter grass turfs 

Add Trees and if the trees get in the way you can just remove them 

Friday, February 27, 2015

Telegraph poles !!!! 20-28mm

With this post I'm going to show you guys a quick in easy way to make telegraph poles for your ww2 gaming table .. Telegraph poles are a great extra and can really make the table whole and more full !! Now i know you can go and buy these at warlord games or train shops or where ever .. But when I bought the chain of command rule set and started reading I saw great looking telegraph poles and just needed to know how they were made !! So I quickly get on to the toofatlardies site and wrote them an email about what they used for the metal things on top of the poles that the wires would be attached to . They got back to me an told me that they were inner tubes to pens where the ink is held .. So with that being the only little bit of info I needed I got right to work !

First we want to take some bass wood or balsa wood and cut them into scale size depending on the scale your trying to achieve I used 1/4in or 0.6cm round balsa wood 
For 20mm you want to cut them into 5inch pieces and for 28mm a couple inches or so taller. After you have them cut you can grab some wooded coffee stirs and cut them to go across the 5 inch piece you cut .. I just eye balled these pieces so that they looked even and weren't to long .. 
After that you want to take the inner tube to you pen that you have and drain that of ink and cut them into little pieces (again I just eye balled this) just make sure that they don't look to big. Glue your pieces across and let them dry after take some WOOD GLUE and glue your inner tube pen cap pieces and glue them on and let dry.

Ounce that's dry you can move on to painting and basing . For painting I used Vallejo chocolate brown with a little German grey mix (recommended by the lards) after I painted the pen caps white as to take the plastic look away . I painted them white to represent the porcelain material that they are. After that I dry brushed some stone grey on the wooden parts of the pole after that drys I went ahead and dry brushed the tiniest bit of white .. Trying to give it a weathered look.

After your paint has dried you can move onto basing them .. I used some basic washers from my local hardware store and hot glued them into place and let that dry ... After I used some GROUT AS texture 

Spread that around the bases to give it a texture around the poles let that dry and paint the texture in different browns to get the best looking dirt you can after that you can flock it with static grass and their ready to go and these cost you about 2 dollars to make
 instead of paying 25$ for a set plus shipping and waiting for them to get here and i personally like the look of these better than the plastic ones or the ones you can get online better .. If you have any questions feel free to email me at 

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

How to make wheat fields .. To give them a better look on the table

This one I'm gonna give you a quick easy way to make some great looking fields that work for every period of gaming and looks great on any table !

Firstly you need a welcome matt sometimes they can be a pain to find some you might have to do a little shopping around to find one.. then you will need some MDF board.. You want to cut the MDF board into your desired shape ... You can then file down your edges and the right angles. You can also keep your edges to fit smaller pieces together easier to make 1 big field.. Or leave them to stand on there lonesome (I filed down some of mine) next you want to take your welcome matt and cut a few pieces big and small to your liking and glue the pieces to your base (MDF)
The next step after letting your pieces dry to your bases you want want to texture the base,for this I used GROUT from Home Depot (local hardware store) spread it around and up to the base of your glued on pieces to blend them to base. Let that dry and after that's dry you can paint and dry brush the texture different browns to represent the dirt... Wile that's drying you can take and cut shavings from the welcome matt i used a little mechanical saw because cutting shavings from the Matt can be hard and take a wile.. This way it's fast and easy ... After you have a good amount of shavings  you want to take some watered down white Elmer's glue and an old brush and brush the glue on around your pieces you glued on to the base. Your going to want to use a good amount of watered down glue to get enough of your welcome matt shavings to stay and glue into place.. Let dry for a wile after you can drop more water and glue on top of the shavings ounce they dried to the base to help them stick better .. Personally I don't like the look of the shavings ounce the glue drys on top of them so I used something different called TACKY SPRAY . Just a quick couple of light sprays should do it .. Anymore you could ruin your field ...( Just on the the shavings you glued down) Ounce that drys you can then flock your surround areas that were not covered buy the shavings ... I did with mine and preferably like them better than just leaving them bare... Ounce that's done HAPPY GAMING !!! He's some pictures of the process to give you a visual ..again any questions feel free to email me at

Making bocage 20mm 28mm world war 2

    The first thing you need to make bocage is some foam board from your local hardware store. Cut them into desired length . I cut mine all 6-8 inches long.
    Next you want to shape them into the mounds of dirt that the foam will be used to represent, with a hobby blade , and sander just shape them and take out any right angels , and give them a bit of a slope. Next you will want to take some "skewers" I use skewers because I feel their not as strong as tooth picks . First you want to take the sharp end and put them where you want ... Than take some white Elmer's glues and fill the whole and put the skewers in . I put 3 because I feel 2 isn't enough and over 3 is to crowded . The skewers will be used later to glue the foliage to and act as tree or bush stumps . After the skewers are in, you want to mouth them to bases. You can use MDF board or polystyrene cards from your local model train shop ... Cut your bases to the same length you cut the foam piece....I used the polystyrene I think it was a half inch width .. I don't have a picture of that at the moment but I will put one up soon. Let them dry to the bases over night to make sure there sturdy and dry.
    Next you want to take Some Elmer's wood filler (stainable) I used the regular color or neutral color because I think that any dark color or brighter color might be harder to paint over, I'm not to sure but I'm sure that other texture would work but t think this will hold the best for what we're trying to do.

    Take the wood filler and texture the whole mound leaving the skewers to poke out . This will bond the whole pice and base together to give it a tighter hold.

    You want to let that dry fully . Usually over night is your best option . 
    After the wood filler is dry you want to start the paint process ... With this being terrain and 
    going to take a lot of paint I used some kraft paints you can get at your local arts and craft store instead of my Vallejo paints. With that being said you want to take some regular Elmer's white glue and some brown paint and mix the m at a 50/50 ratio .. Paint the whole mound with this mixture and let dry. After they dry it will almost feel plastic .. It's gives it a hard smooth but protective layer over your mounds .. THIS 
    STEP IS A MUST !!! You need to mix your first layer of paint with glue or it won't hold right or feel right and painting your dirt won't come out right and will be ruff and not as resilient.
     the first layer of glue and paint is dry can can move on to painting the dirt. You can use any formula you have to paint the dirt. To each his own !! Paint the the skewers as well.
    The next step is adding the foliage ...... I used GREEN FURNACE FILTER 

    cut them up to size and pre fit them onto your mounds of dirt you just made .
    You want to ruff them up and cut the right angles out and just bush them out and mess them up like a bad hair day ! 

    After you have pre fitted BUT NOT GLUED YOUR GRREN FURNACE  strips your going to want to spray paint them .. So take them to a nice ventilated area or outside (if weather permits) and with brown spray paint you want to really spray them .. These hold a lot of paint and will take a few coats to get the desired affect. After their dry turn them upright and spay a lighter tan color just on the tops to give it more contrast ... I didn't keep the factory green because I felt that it was to fake looking and to bright and I choose the brown because it will represent all the overgrowth of branches and stumps that in the bocage .. It will give it a better result when you go to flock .

    After the spray paint drys you want to fit the pieces onto your mound so that your skewers are in the bush itself ..put some TAC GLUE on the skewered and top of your mound to secure them onto your mound.. Let them dry for a wile ...before that you should flock your mound with some Green flock on the mounds itself to give it that over growth look .. It also blends into the table and the green filter better 

    After all of that you are ready to flock the filter itself !! I used sawdust green flock that I've had for years you can it at your local hobby train store .
    To flock the filter your going to need a spray bottle, water and glue and water down some Pva so that way it can spray out the bottle 

    I then taped the mounds with blue painters carpenter tape .. To protect the mounds from the glue you'll be spraying and unwanted flock from getting all over your mounds.(this was my choice) you don't have to cover it with tape if you don't want to. some ppl like all the extra flock on their mounds.  
    After you tape your mounds and have your water and glue in your spray bottle you want to go outside with your flock hold them upside down and spray the water and glue all over your 
    "filter" and start flocking make sure you go over it a few times it will take a good amount of flock to cover it all.

    This is what it will look like after your done flocking ... Let dry for a day or over night let the tape sit on until everything is dry peal the tape off  ENJOY YOUR NEW BOCAGE !!! You can further secure your flock on your bushes buy spraying them with hair spray to harden them like I did ... These are heavy duty and basically indestructible .. I got this idea from a great gaming blog called GAMING WITH SILVER WHISTE YOU CAN check out his fantastic blog for 
    this and more terrain making.. I've made some slight changes in material and steps and wanted to share mine with you !! Feel free to send me an email if you have any questions on anything I left out or if I just wasn't that clear on a step.. Or you can go to silver whistle blog for his method !